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Hi guy, Well its time for this good ole pickup to get 8 cylinder instead of 7. She has a vin #218 1343975 and been to New York and Mexico in her day a couple of times. I feel sorry for my landlord for the ride. New when they got her. I'm here in Bozeman, Montana and she pushes around the snow
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Re: 1964 W-100 replace engine EXCELLENT INFO
Posted by:
dannymontani
(70.193.58.---)
Posts: 21
Posts: 21
Date: October 16, 2009 08:28PM
Re: 1964 W-100 replace engine com'n up
Posted by: JimmieD (66.81.198.---)
Date: October 14, 2009 09:37PM
The Poly flywheel works with the larger clutches, so you can bolt in just about any pressure plate for a truck up to what's called an 11" clutch.
Your newer engine is the best of the LA's, a Magnum series. It should have the best fuel injection, MPFI as Multi-Point Fuel Injection. It has the best heads Mopar ever put on a small block with the exception of a Poly engine. It's the only small block even close to comparable to a Poly. It can make an easy 380 HP/380 torque!
(I'm sorry if I was not clear that there was not a carb on it. Why I was wondering which Wieland would work. I appreciate the info for the future though.)
Seems to me Mopar Performance sells the goodies to put that motor in vintage cars, worth checking into. As mentioned, MPFI requires a computer plus a wiring harness & electronic ignition, not cheap.
(Even if I were to have the capability of the EFI, if the cost is an issue, then my lil landlord here most likely would not want to pay for it. Ya, I know, engine was almost free and she's got me.)
If you would swap the EFI then an Edelbrock Performer manifold with Edelbrock 1406 electric choke carb is an excellent combo for that engine, great torque, midrange & top end and the most economical for gas mileage, but not as good as the stock EFI. No other carburetor is as tuneable as this Edelbrock/Weber re-engineering of the venerable Carter AFB series. The Eddie carb mentioned will give far more power than the 2bbl, plus more torque plus better mileage! It has no Holleycrap 'Power Valves' to blow out the first time you backfire.
(If this is the pair, than it may well go in, I'm looking into it tonight and tomorrow)
Hedman Hedders in 1-5/8" diameter will flow very well while maintaining excellent bottom end torque. Best is a 2-1/2" dual exhaust, with a balance pipe at 16"-18" behind collector outlets.
(Excellent sir!)
There's a roller pilot bearing available for that setup that fits the NP435 input shaft. That newer engine is the same basic engine as the Mopar 'Crate Motors' currently sold through Mopar Performance.
(So... as I don't know, can I assume the trans (4 speed) that came in these trucks is what you say above... a New Process 435? May as well ask what the transfer case would be as well. ? ) (I am stashing away all infor now, as next spring I will get into this other area.)
318 Poly can get very polluted by using cheapo oil, ESPECIALLY PENNZOIL! There's 2 little oil drainback holes in lower corners of heads. Junk oil like Pennzoil forms carbon deposits similar to charcoal briquets which can clog the oil drainbacks, causing oil to pool in cylinder heads. This can give lower oil level readings after engine is run, right after shutting it off. When cold oil level will rise from slow seepage back into pan.
(Well then, there you have it. Cheap, crappy oil = Pennzoil = ya git what'cha payfer. Exactly what has Always has been here. I personally always use Castrol and Wix, and a new pilot friend mechanic in Eastern Montana says they all swear by Amsol in that business. I do use Castrol in the truck. ) Personal Opinion?
In addition the oil pools up around worn valve guides & leaks down to cause smoke at startup that may clear up after awhile. It also fouls the plugs, causing misfiring. In addition it can cause the pooled oil to slip by valve guides under heavy acceleration, again causing puffs of smoke.
(Boy oh boy does it! I've got all the holes in the floor and around the shifters plugged with rags to keep the smoke out.)
There's oil squirters through the rocker arm assembly that get trashed by those charcoal deposits too, causing clattering valves and possible rocker arm & shaft damage, or recession at adjusting screws.
The oil drainbacks can be easily cleaned using a .22 or .38 caliber gun brush once valve covers are removed. It can make a huge difference in how that engine runs if that's the [likely] problem. I got another 200,000 miles out of an already 200,000+ mile Poly by cleaning drains, adjusting valves, replacing a rocker arm & adjusting screw.
(22, whats that. We use 50 cal's up here. You are a scholar sir. I will do the two above paragraph recommendations as well as a compression test on that number 8. If it has any oomph left at all, and any miniscule adjustment out of the clutch, I may just be able to slide by (pun... not... intended) until spring and do a full overhaul. Accumulate what I need through the winter. Maybe I'll get lucky and find another poly and find time to do it through the winter. Crikey.)
Norm evidently forgot to mention it, but POLY's RULE!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2009 09:42PM by JimmieD.
I very much appreciate your time and information, Danny
Posted by: JimmieD (66.81.198.---)
Date: October 14, 2009 09:37PM
The Poly flywheel works with the larger clutches, so you can bolt in just about any pressure plate for a truck up to what's called an 11" clutch.
Your newer engine is the best of the LA's, a Magnum series. It should have the best fuel injection, MPFI as Multi-Point Fuel Injection. It has the best heads Mopar ever put on a small block with the exception of a Poly engine. It's the only small block even close to comparable to a Poly. It can make an easy 380 HP/380 torque!
(I'm sorry if I was not clear that there was not a carb on it. Why I was wondering which Wieland would work. I appreciate the info for the future though.)
Seems to me Mopar Performance sells the goodies to put that motor in vintage cars, worth checking into. As mentioned, MPFI requires a computer plus a wiring harness & electronic ignition, not cheap.
(Even if I were to have the capability of the EFI, if the cost is an issue, then my lil landlord here most likely would not want to pay for it. Ya, I know, engine was almost free and she's got me.)
If you would swap the EFI then an Edelbrock Performer manifold with Edelbrock 1406 electric choke carb is an excellent combo for that engine, great torque, midrange & top end and the most economical for gas mileage, but not as good as the stock EFI. No other carburetor is as tuneable as this Edelbrock/Weber re-engineering of the venerable Carter AFB series. The Eddie carb mentioned will give far more power than the 2bbl, plus more torque plus better mileage! It has no Holleycrap 'Power Valves' to blow out the first time you backfire.
(If this is the pair, than it may well go in, I'm looking into it tonight and tomorrow)
Hedman Hedders in 1-5/8" diameter will flow very well while maintaining excellent bottom end torque. Best is a 2-1/2" dual exhaust, with a balance pipe at 16"-18" behind collector outlets.
(Excellent sir!)
There's a roller pilot bearing available for that setup that fits the NP435 input shaft. That newer engine is the same basic engine as the Mopar 'Crate Motors' currently sold through Mopar Performance.
(So... as I don't know, can I assume the trans (4 speed) that came in these trucks is what you say above... a New Process 435? May as well ask what the transfer case would be as well. ? ) (I am stashing away all infor now, as next spring I will get into this other area.)
318 Poly can get very polluted by using cheapo oil, ESPECIALLY PENNZOIL! There's 2 little oil drainback holes in lower corners of heads. Junk oil like Pennzoil forms carbon deposits similar to charcoal briquets which can clog the oil drainbacks, causing oil to pool in cylinder heads. This can give lower oil level readings after engine is run, right after shutting it off. When cold oil level will rise from slow seepage back into pan.
(Well then, there you have it. Cheap, crappy oil = Pennzoil = ya git what'cha payfer. Exactly what has Always has been here. I personally always use Castrol and Wix, and a new pilot friend mechanic in Eastern Montana says they all swear by Amsol in that business. I do use Castrol in the truck. ) Personal Opinion?
In addition the oil pools up around worn valve guides & leaks down to cause smoke at startup that may clear up after awhile. It also fouls the plugs, causing misfiring. In addition it can cause the pooled oil to slip by valve guides under heavy acceleration, again causing puffs of smoke.
(Boy oh boy does it! I've got all the holes in the floor and around the shifters plugged with rags to keep the smoke out.)
There's oil squirters through the rocker arm assembly that get trashed by those charcoal deposits too, causing clattering valves and possible rocker arm & shaft damage, or recession at adjusting screws.
The oil drainbacks can be easily cleaned using a .22 or .38 caliber gun brush once valve covers are removed. It can make a huge difference in how that engine runs if that's the [likely] problem. I got another 200,000 miles out of an already 200,000+ mile Poly by cleaning drains, adjusting valves, replacing a rocker arm & adjusting screw.
(22, whats that. We use 50 cal's up here. You are a scholar sir. I will do the two above paragraph recommendations as well as a compression test on that number 8. If it has any oomph left at all, and any miniscule adjustment out of the clutch, I may just be able to slide by (pun... not... intended) until spring and do a full overhaul. Accumulate what I need through the winter. Maybe I'll get lucky and find another poly and find time to do it through the winter. Crikey.)
Norm evidently forgot to mention it, but POLY's RULE!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2009 09:42PM by JimmieD.
I very much appreciate your time and information, Danny
