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Hey gang- first post here- pround new owner of a 1971 Dodge D100, which is quite a project- but I'm game. First issue is the engine....it runs fine- when it does.... It has new oil, plugs, wires, cap, carb rebuild (done by a PRO shop in Daytona and verified today), battery, starter, fuel pump, 
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running....
Posted by: yellowdog (162.197.99.---)
Posts: 4
Date: September 27, 2013 05:44AM

Quote
JimmieD
Don't know if you got your problems solved yet?

I'd check the vacuum advance cannister on the side of the distributor. It will have a rubber hose running up to the carburetor or just below it. Pull hose loose at carb, take off distributor cap. Suck on the carb end of the hose to draw a vacuum then plug it with the tip of your tongue, while watching points plate.

This application of vacuum should cause the points plate that points are mounted on to slowly turn - revolve. Holding vacuum with tip of tongue, plate should stay advanced, not slip back to retarded position. If there's no movement at all the vacuum advance cannister's diaphragm is ruptured or dried out or the lever coming out of cannister that hooks to bottom of points plate has come loose. Of course if the vacuum hose isn't hooked up then nothing's going to happen at all.

Under normal circumstances this vacuum is maximized when you step on the gas to accelerate and the points plate moves to advance the timing for more power. The closer to WOT [Wide Open Throttle] you go the more vacuum, hence the more advance. Some vacuum advance is needed anywhere above idle, especially under acceleration.

Just the vacuum cannister can be replaced, should still be available from parts stores. Also the vacuum hose has to be in good condition, not dried out, and tightly connected at both ends.

You can also start engine with distributor lock-down bolt loosened a bit, just loose enough that distributor will turn with some effort. With disto loosened start engine, slowly turn distributor with engine running. Vacuum advance should be on left side of distributor. Turn distibutor slowly counter-clockwise [advance] until engine misses slightly, then turn it back a few degrees clockwise. Try throttle to check for improvement. Pinging and missing indicates too much advance. You can turn-in this running timing improvement to a point that engine just quits pinging under load, then a hair bit more clockwise and retarded. That should be real close to correct timing. Don't test drive it with distributor lock-down bolt loose. Changing points gap can change timing slightly.

Also an engine can run sorta okay at idle but when you try to accelerate a vacuum leak can cause a missing, some real bad running. Carb needs a good gasket and phenolic insulator, no leaks.
I'm not trying to be a jerk here for my first post but you don't know what you are talking about. A vacuum canister is at maximum advance at idle and as the engine speed increases the vacuum decreases retarding the spark. The distributor has a centrifugal advance that increase with speed.
As for why the engine runs at start and then dies after cranking, if your truck has points and condenser then it has a start circuit that bypasses the white ceramic resistor on the firewall and provides a full 12 v to the coil. When the start circuit is released then the voltage runs through the resistor dropping the voltage down to 6 volts. I would check your wiring to the resistor and the see what the voltage is going in and coming out with a multitester. The next thing I would check would be the gap on the points and make sure they aren't pitted. If those are all checking out, and the points and condenser are new, then you might have a loose wire running from the resistor to the coil. If the resistor is not getting current then your wiring issue is between the ignition switch on the run circuit to the resistor.
I have also had a cracked cap do this, so check that next. One last place I would check is the plug wires themselves. when getting the full 12v it might run, but when it drops to 6 v it might start cutting out. You can check that at each plug by pulling the plug leave the plug wire and looking at the spark as it lays against a ground. check the spark off the coil high tension wire first, note the strength of the spark. now look at the individual, wires if the spark is weak or is not firing when you let off the starter then your wires are bad.
If you have electronic ignition then it could still be the resistor, the wiring or the plug wires.
You can run a separate wire through a new resistor straight to the battery and then to the coil to verify the ignition run circuit wiring or a bad resistor.
The fuel issue you mentioned about the filter not being full has nothing to do with being able to supply the fuel. I have a 65 mustang that uses a clear filter and when it runs the filter looks almost empty. I've let it fill up and reattached it but it still manages to drop back down looking empty. The proof is that the motor runs fine when starting. This is an electrical problem.

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Subject Views Written By Posted
1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 1870 Stevodod 08/05/2013 10:08PM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 786 shartwig 08/06/2013 11:48AM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 782 PwrWgnDrvr 08/07/2013 01:39PM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 755 swptln 08/08/2013 01:30PM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 803 JimmieD 08/22/2013 05:43PM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 737 swptln 08/22/2013 06:46PM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 2197 yellowdog 09/27/2013 05:44AM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 784 PwrWgnDrvr 09/27/2013 10:33AM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 985 JimmieD 10/06/2013 11:59PM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 2619 yellowdog 10/10/2013 12:19AM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 764 JimmieD 08/25/2013 08:07AM
Re: 1971 318 starts and won't stay running.... 664 yellowdog 09/27/2013 10:49PM


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