Without testing it with a meter, it would be tough to say? It could be a number of different problems, wiring reversed at either the resistor or the ignition switch, bad starter solenoid switch???????
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Yes, in that case you could use an impact....but, I would still rather use a breaker bar. I have the Miller yoke wrench in my arsenal of tools, but angle iron or any type of bar bolted to the yoke would serve just as well for sure. The 741's pinion uses a splined pinion yoke vs the 489's tapered style. You will most likely need a two jaw puller to get the yoke off.
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

D100's use 1/2" spring bolt. W100-W200 use 5/8" spring bolt. All 300-Series use 3/4" spring bolt. I got these straight out of my parts books. 61-68 use: D100 Part# 1923876 which is a 1/2" bolt. W100, D200, W200 2907406 which is a 5/8" bolt. All 300's 3/4" bolt. 69-71 use: D100 Part# 1923876 which is a 1/2" bolt.
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

LMAO, that's for sure.....
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Never use an impact wrench on your pinion nut, because of the backlash in the gears you could crack the pinion or ring gear. If you have a 489 case it is very critical that you torque the flange and nut back on to the factory spec's or you will change all your backlash and bearing pre-load settings. The 741 and 742 cases aren't as critical, but still need to be torqued correctly. The 48
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Correct me if I'm wrong guy's, but the only way you can go to smaller shackle bolts is to go to 1/2 ton D-series hardware and that will require changing all your perches as well. I had my local spring shop match up a set of 2600 springs for my 68 W200 and they didnt change the ride at all vs the 1750's only that they could handle more weight. The 1750's would do alot of flopp
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Are you trying to get a job with Chrysler's Mopar Performance Division All kidding aside, I agree if you can afford it a new Ma Mopar set-up is the best way to go, Accel, Mallory, Pertonix, etc. are ok, but for the money Mopar gives you more spark for the buck and as mentioned the distributors are totally rebuildable all with off the shelf parts. If you can't afford a new distribut
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Definitely ready for work thats for sure... That gin pole on the front is for plucking bowties and blue ovals out of the mud and the platform is for the spectators
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Jimmie, It's the other way around, you should be bypassing the resistor while cranking and running through the resistor in the run position. All Chrysler ignition switches have a bypass wire, so that while in the start position, your bypassing the ballast resistor and giving the coil full 12 volts and when you release to the run position, it goes back to or through the resistor and yes it s
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

You guy's were correct on the VIN location, it's on the Right side next to the bulkhead fitting for the front brake line. Here's the number I was talking about for the sub-assembly. Clearly no relation to the VIN..........
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Yes, it is most definitely a part number, not a VIN or part of the VIN, I have talked with Lee Exline @ roadkillontheweb.com and it appears to be a sub-assembly part number used only during assembly on the line, due to the fact that a frame rail in itself is not serviceable. That is why there is no listing for this part number in the FPM only the chassis as an assembly would be listed in the FPM
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

No, it's a 7 digit part number and it's on the wrong side of the frame to have any relation to the VIN. The VIN frame numbers are on the left side.
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

I found a part# 2909752 stamped in my frame tonight while stripping it down, on the right outside rail, right next to one of the rivet holes for the transfer crossmember. I looked it up in my parts book, but couldn't find anything. Just curious what the heck it would be???? or why they would put it there??
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

I would replace the cap first, if it ran and started right up, there is nothing wrong with your pickup, timing, etc. Most likely due to all the moisture the cap is junk. Wire brushing and trying to clean a distributor cap is usually at best a temporary fix and most often than not doesn't work too well. Just as a little advice, I wouldn't use WD-40 in a distributor cap, I know it displac
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

This thing is cool.
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

ROFLMAO, That was good. Wonder if Paul in NY has those problems with his PW Syrup or if it's just common to Vermont
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Ya, a 413 bore is (4.18) and 426 is (4.25), so 4.18 plus .070 = 4.25.
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Technically, using a short-bed frame and putting a long bed on the back wouldn't do any good. Unless you alter the wheelbase by moving both the axles forward, would only be for show. The whole reason for altering the wheelbase was to transfer weight to the rear axle. Using a 114" truck would be the best choice to alter for weight transfer, moving the front axle forward only helps in ro
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Ya, John is correct, unfortunately there is a lip on those hole that is higher than the floor of the intake area and they never completely drain out, thus usually more often than not they rot out. The lowest point of the intake area is right where the cowl meets the top of your fender which is why the cowl always rots above the fender. I drilled 2-1/2" holes in the cowl of mine underneath
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Hey Ron, I have a complete set-up I pulled off my 69 if your interested? It has the ram that goes on the tie-rod with a special pitman arm with a pressure valve that operates the ram. As mentioned mine was leaking everywhere too, but it worked pretty good when I had mine running for a short time before I dismantled the truck, it needs a complete rebuild for sure. Check the pic's of my Pro
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Happy New Years Guy's Gordo's idea would be the simplest, then put a set of W100 leafs up front to make sure all the weight transfer work's properly, per 1964-65 spec's. Wheelie bars are for sissy's, that's what a step and drag bumper is for
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

I would probably say mixing them is probably not the best thing to do, but I would definitely not use a solvent based cleaner to flush any hydraulic system, as mentioned it's going to raise hell with your seals for sure. I have flushed Dot 3 out of a number of hydraulic systems with Dot 5 and haven't had any problems and I never got a spongy feel on the system either, if it's spon
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Thank's John, Ya, I know I've been looking for a year or so and have looked at a lot of bones for sure and they want stupid money for them too. I hit it lucky on this one for sure. I've seen a good 1/2 dozen of them on the streets around here in real nice shape, but as mentioned they don't want to part with them. My brother picked up a 86 last spring that is pretty solid, b
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

I had a 1990 for a few years and loved the thing, but I started having a lot of problems with the TBI and it wouldn't pass emmissions. Now that Mass, as of last year has eliminated the emmissions on 95 and older vehicles I had been looking around for another one and found this one. It was always garage kept and the guy took real good care of it as well as not driving it much. I wasn'
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Santa, Lead me to a super clean one owner 1993 Ramcharger to replace my 2001 Jeep Cherokee that I had sold about a month ago. It's came with 72,500 miles, no rot, MPI 360, A518, 3.55 gears, 31x10.50 15 tires, full power options. Brought it home on the 10th. Only thing I had to do to it was put a right side exhaust manifold gasket on it.
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Hey Norm, Keep the faith, things will turn out ok. Who would have thought 900+ Sweptlines registered. Seems like just the other day we were trying to get a bunch of us together for Camp Dodge, even though we couldn't make it happen. On the flip side, look how far your site has gone since then and a bunch of the forum goers have met up in person all over the place. Your doing a hell of job
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Another good tip on clutches for the sweptlines is to use DOT 5 and you will never get any moisture in your clutch system. I did the one on my nephews 68 about five years ago and the thing is still like new. The slave cylinders on the Dodges are notoriuos for making condensation being so close to the block from continuos heating and cooling.
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

LMAO, Good post Steve, keep us posted as to the progress. Oh and good luck with the project, and yes they are a pain to remove, I know when mine goes back in it's going to be all brand new, so I don't have to ever remove it after it's all back together.
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Nice PW, Welcome to the forum dude.
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion

Ya, I want the short wheelbase, so I'm going with the utiline. My D100 was a long and I don't care for the look of the 8' bed on a 2-wheel drive.
Forum: Dodge Sweptline Truck General Discussion